Born in the mud-soaked trenches of World War I which gave it its name, vintage trench coats today are an indispensable part of any wardrobe along with T-shirts, jeans and that ever popular little black dress.

The double-breasted raincoat, instantly recognizable the world over by its cut, cuff straps and shoulder epaulets, and belt owes its existence to the invention of water-proof material by Thomas Burberry and the British company Aquascutum in the mid-19th century.

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The material was first used to provide some kind of protection from the damp for British officers serving in the trenches, but then went on to seduce popular imagination and the world of fashion design.

The typical vintage trench coat, as first designed by Thomas Burberry, used gabardine fabric, and was water resistant. It was usually at least knee length and was only available to certain officers in the British and French armies, as optional wear. The coat was usually belted and many were lined with warm material like wool. They were a good alternative to wool serge coats, and could be slightly lighter in weight while still providing some protection against cold and/or rainy conditions.

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Popularity of trenchcoats grew when soldiers brought them home from the war and some armies used them again during World War II. As WWII came to a close the coats were extremely fashionable and became an alternative to long wool coats. Coat styles were manufactured for men and women, with Burberry’s designs initially being the most popular. Today Burberry still is known for their trench coat styles and many people will pay the high prices the company charges to get an authentic Burberry.

Numerous designers have created varied vintage trench coat styles, and in general these coats are best suited for moderate temperatures and rainy weather. They don’t provide as much protection against cold, though zip in linings made of wool or other materials can help. Typically trench coats are best for rainy weather because their materials are often highly water resistant. Though gabardine coats are still popular, there are now numerous fabrics that may be used for these coats.

Another change has been length of the coat and presence of absence or belts. As opposed to vintage peacoats, many coats don’t feature belts, and a number of trench coat styles for women are shorter, coming to mid-thigh instead of to or below the knee. Coat length really depends on preference though, and those looking for a trench coat can find a variety to choose from.

People may notice various straps on vintage trench coats and these had a practical purpose initially, though now they’re mainly for show. When the coats were designed, Burberry began to improve on his design by adding shoulder straps to which officers could attach pins signifying rank. D- Rings, metal rings shaped like Ds, were also affixed to the coats and could be used to attach equipment like hand grenades.